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Pleasureful stroll through San Telmo

Just returned from a pleasureful stroll through San Telmo. Even though it was not the first time we went there, it was the first time i really enjoyed it. Last time we went on a Sunday to visit the "famous" Feria de San Telmo. Then it was ways too many people and the whole thing was too touristy.
Today we went on a Satuerday and on top of that it was the 2nd day of Christmas. Some shops were still closed and there were just enough people around to create the right atmosphere. We ended up in the market hall of San Telmo. Even there the antiques stalls have almost taken over, but a considerable large part is still filled with fruit and vegetables stands.
There is something special about this places. No matter which city I visited, the markets are always a great place to hang out. Be it the Adelaide Market, Melbourne's Prahan Market, Göteborg's Saluhallen or in this case San Telmo's Market Hall - they were always good place for spending some peasureful hours. Today we ended up in a little cafe in the entrance of the hall and ended up staying several hours since Anna started to talk to one of the shop owners. Here are a few pictures:

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Maybe that's a good time to talk about costs of living again. In my previous post I already talked about the rental costs and they are not really cheap. The good news is that the costs for having a coffee are very low. It normally costs around 6 ARS. A sandwich with jamon y queso to go with the coffee should not cost more than 12 ARS. A softdrink (cola, mineral water, etc) is around 7 ARS. Of course this all depends a little on where you go :)
Another great thing is that public transportation is so cheap. There are two tariffs 1.20 and 1.25. If using a bus you just tell the driver where you want to go and then put the money into the machine behind the driver. The subway (Subte) is always 1.25. Compared to public transportation in Europe this is a real steal.
Last but not least, in case you are going to travel a lot by bus it is a good idea to buy a bus guide - guiat which is available at newspaper stands. You need a degree in rocket science to work the pocket version of this guide, but once you figured it out it is worth the investment :)

Enjoy,
Hardy

 

Old comments

2009-12-31Anonymous
Hardy,
One must consult local mercado staff for rentals, not rental agents. Get locals to make rent contract. Then you will be paying the correct price. My suggestion from dealing in Puerto Rico and Naples.

S
2010-01-04Hardy Ferentschik
Asking a local to make the rental contract sounds like a interesting idea. It requires, however, that you know a local who would do that for you. Although, the problem here in Buenos Aires is that for "normal" rentals a minimum lease term of two years is required.
Real estate and rentals are really quite special in Argentina. Talk to any local and she will tell you her special story.
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